Cut List
Rob Cameron
At lunch today I transferred the cutlist I laid out in my notebook to the actual boards:
The two letter initials denote where on the table each board goes: T-Top, F-Front, B-Back, S-Skirt:
I won’t trust these lines to be perfect when I’m actually at the saw cutting them: chalk doesn’t make make for the most precise line. I also make these rough cuts 1/2” wider and 6” longer than the final dimension, to account for any wood movement after breaking down the big boards, and snipe on the planer (I usually deal with between 0” and 1/64” of snipe on the first and last 2” of a board, but I don’t want to risk throwing something else out of alignment by messing with the planer, so I just cut the boards a little long and then trim it off when I’m done).
I’ll take real measurements before each cut rather than rely on the chalk lines. But, laying out each like this shows what the grain will look like in the final board. At the far end of the second board from left you can see I laid out the board at an angle to keep the grain as straight as possible. I’m trying to keep the straightest grain on the top and front boards, as those will be the most visible on the table. In fact, after staring at this layout for a few minutes, I decided to swap the cuts on the first and fourth board: the first board has the straighter grain of the two, so I’m going to use that for the fronts. The skirt and back short sides (only visible when you open up the player trays) will move to the fourth board where the grain is a little more wavy.
#wood #woodworking #gaming #boardgames